Projector InFocus ScreenPlay User Manual . (see page 40) replace lamp When sending the projector in for repair, we recommend shipping the unit in its. Products 1 – of the right to download the INFOCUS LP70+ user manual Infocus Lp infocus lp service manual infocus projector infocus. And now my latest problem: My Infocus SP DLP projector from has Also attached is the service manual for the X1 which is similar.
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Infocus SP powers on but no lamp. Hello all, its good to be back on bcn! And now my latest problem: My Infocus SP DLP projector from has been sitting in its box in a cool, dry sergice for the last year and a half. I pulled it out last weekend but it has decided that it doesn’t want to work anymore. It seems to power on, the fans spin up and the speaker beeps but then after a few seconds the fans slow down partially and it just sits there doing nothing.
Eventually the power light blinks out a 1 code which majual ‘unable to strike the lamp after 5 attempts” The lamp had somewhere mahual hours all in low power mode on it, so it should be good for a while up to hrs on low power.
I am pretty disappointed but figure it is probably fixable. I took it apart and did some more troubleshooting. It looked like the color wheel could be stuck since it was only twitching slightly.
Disasemble Infocus – service manual | AVForums
Apparently it has a speed sensor and will not light the lamp if the color wheel is not spinning at the right speed. I messed with it some more and noticed that after awhile it would twitch more and more and eventually spin up to full speed for a few seconds and then stop.
It would do this in a repeatable fashion so I believe that the color wheel is ok and there is probably a power problem. The power supply has a bunch of lovely suscon caps and a nichicon filter cap.
I figure that caps can go bad sitting around so I replace all but one of the caps with Panasonic FC that I have onhand. I powered it back up and it is still doing the same thing.
I put manuwl scope on some of the output pins of the PSU and note that there is lots of ripple. So I ordered a new filter cap and one more Panny FC to replace the last suscon. Those caps cap in today, I installed them but the projector still behaves the same.
The ripple is the same as well as seen in the pictures. My projector won’t work after 1. The fans run but the lamp won’t come on. I replaced all of the ‘lytic caps including the filter cap on the power supply board but it still behaves the same. The attached pictures show what appears to be gnarly ripple on the output pins of the PSU. The voltage specifications are on page The SP seems similar. Lamp lit was 0v. Last edited by bluto; at Well it worked perfectly before I put it into storage.
It should 480 plenty of hours left on it. Can the lamp go bad just sitting? I tried testing it for continuity. There was no continuity which I would expect for an arc lamp. Is there any other way to test the lamp?
I installed it today and much to my dismay the symptoms are the same. Still no signs of life from the lamp. I would check the color wheel, if its not spinning the lamp will not light.
It may have stuck from sitting. It should come up to speed relatively quickly Sounds like the drive of the wheel has an issue. The speed detector uses the clear section of the color wheel to determine the speed. If it doesn’t happen within a time period, it shuts down.
Further, the lamp starter will only attempt so many times before it shuts down but that usually happens for a bad lamp. Not sure but, I thought there were flash codes to indicate the failure. Do you see any? Last edited by budwich; at It twitches at first intermittently and then eventually spins up to what looks like full speed for a few seconds and then shuts off.
It does so predictably and repeatably which originally led me to think that it was a power problem.
Infocus 4805 Troubleshooting
But you may be right that the color wheel should spin up quickly followed by the squeal noise from the ballast as the lamp strikes. I have not heard that noise and the fans slowing down infoocus a few seconds could indicate that the projector is giving up on its start up process because of the color wheel sensor not getting the correct reading. I am getting a ‘1’ flash code which according to the manual indicates “unable to strike eervice lamp after 5 attempts”.
I think you have found the issue People have had some success reseating the lamps on projectors especially if they have been moved. DO NOT touch the bulb with bare fingers. You could try that. I think you will have a chicken and egg problem. Basically, you can’t know that your ballast is good without a certified good bulb and iinfocus can’t know that you have a good bulb unless you know you have a good ballast My guess with your hours that the bulb is the infocu BUT because you have “played” in the power supply, you have left the door open for additional “probabilities” elsewhere Because projectors have moved on quite a bit from themost would just give up and put the money towards an newer projector.
You might be able to track down some additional “tricks” that might help you out I haven’t unfocus there in a while cause I moved from a infocus X1 to optoma refurb which have both been fine although the optoma is noisy during start up jingles as the wheel spins up Hmm I thought you had me convinced that it was the color wheel It definitely does not spin for several seconds after being spun by hand like in this video: The various offers for third party replacement color wheels on ebay seem dubious at best.
Basically, I think you have a “used up lamp”. Basically, there is NO guaranties centered around the number Its some number that the manufacturer can “show” happened, most likely in “continuous” operation, meaning limited shut down and startup cycles which are the main cause of “depleted hours”.
The striking is “harsh” on the bulb especially with improper shut down and restarts. Based on my reads sfrvice the service manual, if the unit got to the strike “mode”, it has been successful in color spin up but I have never seen my projectors opened up and operating so the visual timing sequence isn’t know to me.
I guess it could be pretty tight such that the wheel is slow to begin spinning and the software checks on the lamp start up could have its “timer expire” before hand which could mean that it really never attempt the strikes I am pleased to say that I have finally solved this mystery.
I was able to purchase another used SP on ebay for a minimal expense. I first checked my lamp in the ebay unit and verified that it was good. Since I had convinced myself that the color wheel was the culprit, I did a swap of that component first. Unfortunately after doing the swap, the symptoms were exactly the same. The color wheel would twitch and then eventually spin for a little bit but nothing else. So now I have to swap some more parts.
Infoccus decided to try both the ebay power supply and rectifier board since maybe mine were cursed. Again the result was the same. So now I have to try swapping the main board.
I guess this won’t be a big deal, maybe there is servlce calibration for the DMD chip or maybe not. I figure that I will just swap it inrocus hope for the best. Well I couldn’t have been more wrong because the ebay main board was an older hardware revision and the connectors to the DMD board were noticeably narrower fewer pins than my original.
So now I had to remove the DMD chip and board from the donor optical housing because it was dusty has a bad light tunnel and screw it onto my original. That actually too difficult and soon I had the whole thing assembled again. And the verdict was Success, it fired up the first time!! Manjal only issue was the donor color manuak was pretty loud.
So after one more time dismantling the unit, I put my original color wheel on and again everything worked fine. So the bottom line here is if your unit won’t strike the lamp and the color wheel twitches and eventually spins, you have a problem with the color wheel drive circuitry on the main board. Final scoreboard on the swap: Original case, optical housing, color wheel, fans and lamp. And for a little post mortum I got to thinking after upgrading servuce firmware on the donor main board that maybe the original problem could have been firmware corruption.
So I hooked up the original components on the bench and did a firmware re-flash. Thankfully zervice my efforts, the color wheel twitch was the same. So the issue truly lies in the color wheel drive circuitry. All times are GMT The time now is